The other thing to consider for a component speaker is that you will typically need to think about the wiring. There is a good amount of space behind and around that tweeter location, so there are some workable solutions for keeping the stock look. I realize that on components the tweeter comes separate, but I doubt they could fit correctly to replace the two front tweeters, correct?There are some tweeters that are drop in to the a-pillar locations, but many others require some fitting / tweaking. (To be fair, I could probably make some improvements tweaks without the DSP by using the treble, mid, and bass settings on the factory unit, but I do have a more granular control with the DSP in place)Ĭool, thanks. The DQ-61 has an button to turn on/off all of the processing and equalization for comparison and it makes a night and day difference in the overall sound quality when listening to the difference. I've played around with it a lot because it gives a number of bands of equalization and other processing capabilities, but the result is no comparison to the sound without the DSP. I installed a DQ-61 because it seemed to provide a good value and feature set for my needs. Now tuning a DSP can be a different story, you can spend a lot of time on tuning if you are into it. The speaker output wires from the factory head unit are connected to the DSP and then you can connect low level rca connections from there to the amplifier. Installing them is not really any more difficult than installing a high level line converter. That said, There is a significant improvement in sound quality with a good DSP. You can use simple high level speaker converters to get the low level signal for your amplifier, and some amplifiers are actually made to take high level input from the head unit speaker outputs directly. Would the sound processor be necessary?The sound processor is not required. I like the setup 1Chad used, but that installation looks extremely out of my knowledge range. I'm actually going to do something like Southpaw did to fix the bass first, then decide if I want new door speakers later. I like the sub box in that 1Chad used.Ģ) Almost any 12" sub will fit under the folding rear bench seat.ģ) Pick a brand of the appropriate size and go with it. That thread shows how to replace the door speakers, what size they are, and how to place a 12" subwoofer that could still be moved out of the way if you need the floor space.ġ) Two 12" subs under the rear seat would be overkill for me, and harder to get out of the way if you need the floor space for cargo. Which door speakers would give me the best sound? I've read Kappa, JL, and I've had a really good experience with Alpine.Īny advice to point me in the right direction would be appreciated!Read this thread located a few posts below yours: What sub would be the best bet while still fitting under the seats?ģ. If I can get away with it, I'd like 2 12" subs under the seat, or how ever much sub I can pack under the seat. Not trying to blow the doors off, but I want some power there.ġ. I want some warm bass, smooth mids, and crisp highs (don't we all?). I've read page after page of threads and haven't really gotten clear answers.Ģ015 XLT SCREW, 8" Productivity Screen, No Sony, No NAV. Just got my 2015 XLT Screw, 1st priority is the sound upgrade.
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